Salt and Pepper
Salt and pepper. The basics of cooking. Good food does not have to be complicated. Almost any cut of meat, any vegetable, any starch - with the proper application of fat and fire - can be amazing as long as they are properly seasoned.
Understanding salt is essential to good cooking. One of the easiest mistakes someone can make in the kitchen is not using enough salt or too much. Using the right amount is they key to many a dish. Too little and the food seems bland, too much and the salt overpowers everything else.
Salt lets other ingredient shine, makes their flavors pop. Salt also masks bitterness. That’s why it pairs so well with chocolate and brussel sprouts and caramel. To those new to cooking it might seem contradictory, but adding salt to a dish does not necessarily make it taste salty - up to a certain point. That’s the magic balancing point a cook should aim for - adding just enough salt so that you can barely taste it.
Since salt enhances flavor, it needs partners to reach its full potential. Partners like pepper. Together they can take the most ordinary ingredients from boring and bland to delicious. [Important note: Kosher salt is less dense than table salt. For instance, I use Diamond Crystal which is half as dense as most table salt - 2 teaspoons of Diamond Crystal is equal to 1 teaspoon of iodized table salt or 1 1/2 teaspoons of Morton’s Kosher salt. All the measurements I give are for Diamond Crystal, so adjust according to what salt you use.]
Here are three simple recipes that show how salt and pepper can elevate all kinds of food.
Quick-Brined Pork Tenderloin
Pork tenderloin is a very lean cut of meat. As such, it tends to dry out very quickly when it’s overcooked, much like chicken breast. But a good soak in a brine can do a lot to solve that problem. A saltwater brine both seasons the meat and keeps it moist for longer.
Active Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 3 hours
Serves: 6
Ingredients
2 pork tenderloins (2 to 2 1/2 lbs total)
4 quarts water
1/2 cup kosher salt
1/2 cup sugar
2 tsp vegetable or canola oil
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp Italian herbs (or 1/2 tsp rosemary and 1/2 tsp thyme)
1. In a large sealable container (at least 2 quarts) add the water, salt, and sugar. Stir until everything is dissolved. (It seems like a lot of salt and sugar but only a small amount will be absorbed into the pork.)
2. Trim the pork tenderloin. Most tenderloin comes with the silver skin still attached. It’s a thin membrane on the surface of the tenderloin. It’s tough and chewy, so get rid of it. To remove it, get a knife under it and carefully separate the silver skin from the meat. It’s tricky to do sometimes without cutting into the meat, so if it’s your first time some losses are acceptable. Place the trimmed tenderloin into the brine, cover, and refrigerate for two hours.
3. After two hours, preheat the oven to 325F. Remove the pork from the brine. Pat it dry and place it on foil-lined cooking tray. Drizzle the oil and sprinkle the pepper and herbs over the tenderloin evenly. Put the tray into the oven and cook about 40-50 minutes, until the pork reaches an internal temperature of 145F for medium (or 155 for medium well, 165 for well, but I really recommend medium. Use a probe thermometer if you have one. Pink pork is okay. Trichinosis is rare in pork these days, and a temperature of 140F kills it in a minute). Let it rest for 5-10 minutes, slice, and serve!
Broiled Asparagus
Active time: 5 minutes
Total time: 15 minutes
Serves: 4
Ingredients
1 bunch of asparagus (about 1 lb.)
1 tsp vegetable oil
1/4 tsp ground black pepper
1/4 tsp kosher salt
1. Wash the asparagus. Pat dry with paper towels.
2. Cut the asparagus into bite size pieces, disposing of any woody ends.
3. In a medium mixing bowl, mix the asparagus with the oil, salt, and pepper.
4. Place the asparagus in a single layer on a foil-lined cooking sheet. Place under the broiler until it has mostly charred, about 8-12 minutes.
Roasted Potatoes
Active Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 40 minutes
Serves: 3 per lb.
Ingredients
1 lb. red potatoes, washed
2 tsp. vegetable oil
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 450F. Chop the potatoes into bite size pieces. Add them to a medium mixing bowl with oil, salt, and pepper. Stir until the potatoes are evenly coated. Place them on a foil-lined cooking sheet. Roast until the potatoes are tender, 25-30 minutes. If you like, you can flip the potatoes halfway through for more even browning, but I like to let one side get really crispy.